The swell height of an ocean buoy doesn't necessarily reflect the height of breaking waves at the beach. For breaking waves to form, the swell must literally collide with something: beaches, underwater shelves, and reefs are common examples. Even when the swell is the same, the breaking wave height might be totally different, for example, at a beach break with a gradual sloping bottom than it is at a rocky reef break where the wave will pick up more quickly.
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